While many types of insects, birds and animals seen in the home are unwanted intruders, others play a vital role in pollinating plants and moving seeds from one place to another.  In fact, without these animal and insect helpers, most plants would be unable to reproduce.

Even though most gardeners understand how important this cycle of pollination and seed disbursal is, few fully understand why it occurs, or how it benefits both the plants and the animals. 

The rewards of pollination and seed disbursal to the plants are easy to determine – they get to spread their seeds far and wide, and start new plants in far off locations.  The rewards the insects, birds and mammals derive are many as well, and they include:
Nectar – nectar is actually a sugary solution, and therefore it is highly prized by all kinds of animals both for its good taste and for the ample energy it provides.  Getting at this nectar is what prompts most pollinating insects, birds and animals to do such a good job.  Nature has provided plants with various ways to attract pollinating insects, birds and animals.  Many types of flowers store their nectar in special glands called nectaries.  These nectar glands are most frequently found in flowers, but they are also sometimes contained in leaves or other parts of the plant as well.  Most plants are designed to protect their nectar stores from non-pollinating insects and animals, through the use of special storage locations that only pollinating insects can reach, for instance.  
The use of nectar and the plants, insects, birds and animals that depend on it is a fascinating study in co-evolution.  The sugar concentrations of many plant nectars have evolved to match the energy requirements of the types of animals, birds and insects that pollinate them.  For instance, bees require a 30-35% concentration of sugar in order to make the honey needed by their larvae in the winter.  Therefore, bees will not visit flowers whose nectar contains less than 30% sugar.  Therefore, the flowers and plants that depend on bees for pollination have evolved high concentrations of sugar in their nectar to attract these pollinators.
Pollen – Pollen is also used by flowers and plants to attract the insects, birds and animals they need.  Pollen is eaten by bees, and it is also used to make a substance called bee bread, which is a high protein combination of pollen and nectar.  This bee bread is used to feed the larvae, which require a high concentration of protein to grow and thrive.  Some plants, such as peonies, poppies and roses, use only pollen as a reward and produce no nectar at all.  Other types of plants produce two types of pollen – their normal pollen and a sterile pollen with is attractive to pollinating insects.  This evolutionary strategy ensures that the good tasting pollen will be eaten while the reproductive pollen will be spread to other areas by the insects, birds and animals that visit the plant.
Of course, this pollen and nectar does the plants no good if the birds, insects and animals cannot find it, and plants and flowers use their bright colors and strong scents to attract these animals and let them know that pollen, nectar, or both await them. 
Some pollinating species rely primarily on their sense of sight, and the bright flowers are used to attract their attention.  Other species, particularly nocturnal ones, rely primarily on smell.  It is the scent of the flowers that attracts these scent oriented pollinators.

Trying to grow healthy, vibrant flowers without proper soil chemistry is definitely a case of putting the cart before the horse.  Good soil is the cornerstone of successful gardening, and it is important to make sure that your soil will meet the needs of your plants before the first seed is planted.

While soil chemistry is important no matter what types of plants or flowers you grow, it is particularly critical when it comes to working with bulbs, perennials or other plants that remain in the ground for than one season.  The reason is that the chemistry of the soil can change from year to year.  Therefore, if a formerly well blooming patch of the garden is looking a bit haggard, the first place to look is at the condition of the soil.  Erosion, overuse of pesticides and fertilizers and a number of other factors can impact the quality of the soil, so it is important to test the soil if you suspect a problem.

Of course the soil should be tested anytime a new flower bed is prepared as well.  It would be a mistake to assume that the soil chemistry is the same everywhere on your property, since the makeup of different patches of soil can be markedly different, due to past use, chemicals or residue in the ground, etc.

It is a good idea to have a thorough soil analysis done prior to planting a bed of flowers.  Most major cities have several laboratories that do soil testing, so be sure to contact such a lab to have the soil analyzed for pH level, and for levels of important plant nutrients.  If you are unsure where to get the soil tested, be sure to ask the staff at your local nursery or garden center for a recommendation.

After the present condition of the soil is known, you will be in a much better position to know how to amend the soil and make the changes that are needed.  Once you know the pH level, the level of organic material in the soil, the amount of clay, amount of sand, etc., you will be able to choose the right additives to provide your plants with what they need to thrive.

The pH level of the soil can be a particularly critical factor when deciding what types of plants will work best.  Most varieties of annuals, perennials and bulbs will grow well in a wide range of soil pH, but some plants have specific needs, and prefer soils that are either very alkaline or very acidic.  If your pH range is outside the norm, or if it needs to be amended, there are a number of ways to accomplish this goal.  For instance, limestone can be used to make acidic soil more alkaline, while sulfur is often used to make very alkaline soil more acidic.  A pH level that is out of balance can also be helped by adding humus. This rich soil can be created at home by using a compost bin, or it can be purchased ready made from a garden center or nursery.

After you know the baseline content of your flower bed, it will be easier to track chemistry changes from year to year, and to make amendments as needed.  The more you know about the quality of your soil, the more confident you can be that the plants you buy will thrive in your home garden.

Bulbs are among the most interesting, most beautiful and easiest to grow of all flower varieties.  Tulip bulbs were once so prized in Holland that it led to one of the best known financial bubbles in history, and even today, tulips are a leading export from that part of the world.

Even though bulbs are not quite so highly prized today as they were in 17th century Holland, they are still loved for their scents, their colors and their shapes, and gardeners love the fact that most bulbs are hardy and easy to grow.

Many of the most popular varieties of flowers are actually grown from bulbs, including tulips, crocuses, daffodils, irises, lilies, daylilies, dahlias and snowdrops.

One thing all bulb based plants have in common is that they grow from structures located under the ground.  These underground structures provide the nutrients and energy the plants need to grow.

Even though bulb based plants are collectively known as “bulbs’, there are actually five distinct types of bulb plants – the true bulb, the corm, the tuber, the rhizome and the tuberous root.  This article will provide examples of each type.

The True Bulb
The true bulb is in reality an underground stem base containing an embryonic plant.  The embryonic plant contained within the steam base already contains the leaves, stems and flower buds, all ready to burst forth once optimal growing conditions are provided.  This setup allows the plant to lie dormant during adverse conditions, and thus to survive droughts and other environmental challenges.
The embryonic plant contained within the stem base is surrounded by scales (modified leaves that overlap in a manner reminiscent of reptile or fish scales).  At the bottom of the bulb is a basal plate; this basal plate holds the scales together and produces the roots of the plant. 
Examples of true bulbs are such popular flower varieties as daffodils, tulips and lilies.  True bulb varieties of plants are susceptible to dryness and must be handled carefully.  When properly cared for, however, individual bulbs can live for many years without being planted.
The Corm
A corm, like a true bulb, also contains a stem base, but the tissue of the base is solid, and it lacks the scales seen in true bulbs.  The roots grow from a basal plate which is located at the bottom of the corm, and the growth point is located at the top of the corm. 

Popular types of corms include gladiolas and crocus.  Each corm lasts for a single season, and as the corm shrinks away after blooming, a new corm forms on top of it.  In addition, small increases, called cormels, are produced around the base of the corm’s basal plate.

The Tuber
Like corm and true bulbs, a tuber is actually an underground stem base.  Unlike corms and a true bulbs, however, the tuber does not contain a basal plate.   Instead, the roots of the tuber grow from both the base and from the sides.  A tuber will have multiple growth points spread out over its top surface.

The Rhizome
The rhizome is actually a thickened stem that grows either partly or completely underneath the ground.  The largest growth point on a rhizome is located at one end, and additional growth points are located along the sides.  The most well known rhizome is the bearded iris.

Tuberous Roots
Unlike other types of bulbs, which are actually specially adapted stems, the tuberous root is not a true root.  Instead, fibrous roots designed to absorb nutrients and water grow from the sides and the tip of the tuberous root.  Most tuberous roots grow in a cluster, and swollen tuberous parts radiate out from a centralized point.  The growth points of a tuberous root are found on the bases of the old stems and not on the roots themselves.  Dahlias and daylilies are the best known examples of tuberous roots.

You may not realize that different types of grasses, just like other plants and shrubs, have different needs and some varieties are more suited to some climates than others. There are grasses that grow better in moderate or moist climates and then other types that do much better in hot, dry locales. If you live in a southerly climate, then here are three grasses that grow well in your area.

1. Bermudagrass

Bermudagrass can be both a blessing and curse. It can be uncontrollable and can invade your flowerbeds and produce an uncontrollable amount of grass seeds. All of this stress and aggravation is worth it though, especially if you have neither the time nor the inclination to nurture your lawn. Bermudagrass can survive for decades with very little care and can also work well as a winter lawn in place of perennial ryegrass. This grass is tough and hardy and is often used on roadsides in the south because of its ability to stand up to real wear and tear with little maintenance.

Bermudagrass needs a warm climate. It is both drought and wear resistant. It is fast growing and the comma Bermuda variety is quite cheap. It does need full sun to thrive and has a very low tolerance for shady areas. Don’t plant Bermudagrass if your lawn does not get a great deal of direct sunlight.

2. Centipede

Like Bermudagrass, centipede is quite low maintenance and does not require frequent mowing or fertilization. It does not, however, grow quickly and it cannot withstand heavy traffic in the way that Bermudagrass can.

Centipede is a tough grass variety that is particularly suited to areas in the lower South and where the soil is quite acidic. This variety of grass can take root where many other grasses have failed. Centipede grass can grow in some shade, but you will get best results if it is full sun or almost full sunspots.

Centipede grass should be fertilized in the spring with low-nitrogen fertilizer. You need to make sure that your fertilizer does not contain phosphorus. The ideal mix to look for is 15-0-15. The ideal pH level for centipede grass is between four and a half and five and a half.

3. Zoysia

Zoysia is a very dark and dense turf and it the most tolerant of cold of the entire southern climate suited grasses. The ideal pH level for this variety of grass is between six and seven.

Zoysia is quite slow to take root if grown right from seed. You can bypass this difficultly by laying sod, rather than growing the grass right from seed. If you decide to go with sees, then you will have to have a great deal of patience.

Zoysia does best in full sun, but there are some sub-varieties that can do well in the shade. The Emerald Zoysia variety has a high shade tolerance. Zoysia also has somewhat of a drought tolerance, though you will need to stay on top of the water level and make sure that you water your grass if the drought lasts longer than a week. Zoysia can deal with some dry spells, but not really lengthy ones. Zoysia grasses should be fertilized in both the spring and the fall.

This variety of grass is the most attractive of the warm season grasses, but it comes at a price. Zoysia grass takes a great deal of care and nurturing on your part to achieve the luxurious look it is known for. If you don’t have the time or energy to devote to this type of grass, then you should probably consider planting one of the other varieties of warm climate grasses.

There are some other warm climate grasses that will do well if you live in a southern climate. There are also some tall fescue varieties that can do well in southern areas too, especially those that are resistant to droughts.

At your local garden center, they should have a mix for your area. Grass companies have spent a great deal of time and money researching the best mix for your area. If you don’t have the time or want to do extensive research into the specific kinds of grass that are best suited to your land, then one of these grass seeds mixtures may be your best bet.

Just about every flower gardener will work with bulb plants at one time or another.  Bulbs are loved by gardeners for the ease with which they grow, their hardiness and the fact that they can bloom again and again for many consecutive seasons without the need to replant.  With all these advantages, it is no wonder that bulb plants are so popular among both new and experienced gardeners.
 
Choosing the right bulbs, however, is one thing that many beginning gardeners have trouble with.  After you develop and eye and feel for finding the best bulbs, however, you will be able to spot them from across the garden center.

When choosing bulbs for your garden, it is important to choose the firmest and largest bulbs.  The size of the bulb is important, since large bulbs are more likely to provide many blooms.  The firmness of the bulb is a good indication of its health, and bulbs that are soft or mushy are unlikely to bloom.  Bulbs are particularly susceptible to water damage.  It is important to choose a bulb that is not to soft, but it is also important to look for cracks or scars.  Bulbs with cracks or scars may have become too dry to bloom.  Likewise, any bulbs that have begun to spout roots should be avoided, as they are unlikely to bloom properly once planted.

How bulbs are planted in the garden is important as well.  Most bulbs are best planted in the fall, most commonly in early to mid October.  The goal is to get the bulbs into the ground six weeks before the ground begins to freeze, so obviously the best time to plant will vary from location to location. 

Bulbs should be planted in a well prepared soil, and the depth they should be planted will be determined by the type of bulb.  For example, crocus bulbs are generally planted four inches deep, daffodil and hyacinth bulbs six inches deep and tulip bulbs at a depth of eight inches.

A simple gardening tool called a bulb planter is great for achieving a more uniform look to the blooming garden.  Bulb planters can be used to easily prepare perfect looking rows of flowers.  Those gardneres who prefer a more wild and freewheeling look, on the other hand, often dig a single hole and plant several bulbs in it.  This approach can lead to spectacular, if somewhat unpredictable, patterns once the bulbs begin to bloom.

It is important to use a small amount of fertilizer at the bottom of each hole you dig when planting bulbs.  The fertilizer should then be topped with a thin layer of soil, and the bulb carefully placed on top of the soil.  It is important not to place the bulb directly on top of the fertilizer, as doing so could damage the bulb.  Bulbs are always planted with the pointed end stick up and the flat, rooted side lying on top of the layer of soil.  After the bulbs are in place, the rest of the hole should be filled with soil and the garden should be given a thorough watering.

Even though bulbs are among the hardiest of garden plants, there are a few important things to remember.  One important technique to become familiar with is deadheading.  The term deadheading should already be familiar to those gardeners who work with perennials.  Deadheading is simply removing spent blooms in order to encourage more blossoms to develop.  This process is important with bulb plants as well.  When working with bulbs, however, it is important not to remove the leaves from the plants until the leaves have begun turning brown.

Taking care of the bulbs over the winter is important as well.  In warmer climates, many bulbs can remain in the ground over winter.  It is important, however, to remove tender bulbs such as dahlias, even in warmer climates.  These bulbs should be stored over the winter in a cool, dry location.

Bulbs are wonderful plants for any gardener, from the newest to the most experienced.  Their combination of hardiness, color and beauty make them hard to beat for any flower enthusiast.