Like nearly everything else, it is possible to pay someone else to trim your landscape plants. However, it is much more economical to learn how to properly prune your trees and shrubs yourself. Additionally, the exercise gives some people great enjoyment, as it is an excuse to be outside and enjoy fine weather and fresh air. There are different techniques to pruning, and different times of the year when such pruning is appropriate. By keeping a careful watch on your yard and paying attention to when your trees bloom, you can make sure to keep your landscape in the best shape through careful pruning.

Deciduous trees and bushy plants. These woody trees and plants are best pruned in early spring while they are still dormant. Some plants, however, go through a process of “bleeding,” when sap runs out of the cuts. While this does not actually harm the plant or tree, it can cause homeowners distress and worry. Therefore, when pruning plants that tend to bleed (such as maple, box elder, black walnut, elm, birch, and honeylocust), it is also acceptable to wait until they are fully leafed out.

Woody bushes like lilac, spirea, mock orange, viburnum, and forsythia should be pruned immediately after blooming. These plants have flowering buds that are produced every previous growing season. And, by pruning such plants directly after they bloom, you will be able to decorate your house with the sweet smelling blossoms on the pruned branches. These small branches, and the thin, small branches of a tree, may be cut with ease all the way through with only a single cut.

When removing a large branch on a tree, however, you will need to make three cuts. This will help you avoid tearing the bark. The first cut is placed on the under side of the branch, and should be located about 12 inches from where the branch meets the trunk. This cut is not very deep — only one-fourth to one-third of the way through the branch. Next, a cut should be made on the topside of the branch, and should be about two inches farther from the trunk than the first cut. Saw completely through the branch on the second cut. The last cut on the branch should be just beyond the branch collar. Leaving a stub encourages disease, and cutting the main trunk produces a wound that heals slower.

Evergreens. Evergreens have a slightly different consideration that the deciduous woody plants. They can be pruned in the early spring, but you should ensure that the new growth has hardened. Evergreens can be pruned practically any time between mid-April and mid-August. It is important to have them trimmed before mid-August because if you wait any longer, they may not recover from their wounds in time to withstand the winter.

Pruning of evergreens should be based upon the presence of their branch foliage. Do not cut beyond the green foliage portion. If you continue to prune, lightly, evergreens such as arborvitaes, yews, and junipers, each summer, they will eventually be a thicker and fuller plant. Failure to prune will result in scraggly-looking trees. Larger junipers and other plants may need a size reduction. In order to do this, follow the branches to be cut until you find new small growth that parallels the branch. Make your cut, diagonally, just beyond the reach of this smaller, parallel branch.

In some evergreens, you will find that the top has been lost due to injury. In such cases, you need to “build” a new top. This can be done by selecting the largest of the whorls nearest the top and by gently bending it up. Tie the branch to an attached brace, using a non-girdling material such as cloth. Then cut back the other lateral branches so that they cannot compete with the branch chosen as the new top. As with deciduous trees, it is important to cut back to a side branch or bud, and to leave no stubs.

No matter what type of tree you are pruning, the practices of topping, hat-racking, and heading are not recommended. These methods of trimming are not true pruning techniques, and they result in small shoots, called suckers, to form near the cut surface. These suckers are weak and rarely attractive, and they can distort the shape of the tree. And once improperly pruned, a tree may never return to its characteristic form.

Nearly every gardener has some type of gardening equipment.  In fact, it’s nearly impossible to have a garden without used gardening equipment.  What kind of gardening equipment you use will obviously depend on the size and extent of your garden, what you are able to handle, if you want to spend a lot of time in your garden or get done quickly, and finally, how much money you are willing to spend.

While many gardeners do not have expensive or high-tech gardening tools, all of them have some type of gardening equipment for cultivating.  Tools for cultivating can include both hand held tools and power tools.  What kind you buy depends on how serious of a gardener you are.  Hand tools include your everyday items like shovels, spading forks, rakes, trowels, and diggers.  These can all be used to get a garden ready for planting and are relatively easy and do not require much strength to use.  Other tools include a wheel cultivator, pickax, and mattock.

While power tools are a little more expensive than hand tools, they really cut down on the hard labor.  The most essential piece of gardening equipment is undoubtedly the tiller.  The tiller will break up the ground and get it ready for planting, chop up any debris, and help mix in fertilizer and compost.  If you don’t want to spend the money on a tiller you can hire someone or rent a tiller for one time use.  Other power tools that are very popular include chippers, garden shredders, and chain-saws.

If you have shrubs, hedges, or small trees in your yard, pruning tools are a vital piece of gardening equipment.  Pruning shears are good for branches about ¾” in diameter, while lopping shears can handle branches from a half inch up to about 2 inches.  Pole pruners are on a pole and can reach branches about 15 feet above ground.  Hedge shears and pruning saws are both larger, more heavy duty pruning tools for the serious gardener.

Since your plants must be watered in order to survive, and lets face it, it doesn’t rain whenever we want it to, gardening equipment for watering is a must have.  The one thing you can’t get along without is a water hose, everything after that is optional.  Many gardeners use sprinklers or s drip irrigation hose.  There are even timers you can purchase for sprinklers or drip hoses, if you are willing to drop the extra cash.

Gardening without gardening equipment would be a nightmare.  Sure there are some people who enjoy getting a little dirty while they plant their flowers, but even those types of people have the most basic of gardening tools, like a rake or a hoe.  Gardening equipment is a part of gardening, as important as the dirt and the seeds.

 
Most of us are ready to invest huge amount for landscaping and gardening to give face lift for our home. But we failed to prune when the plants needed it, and then your highly invested landscape looks terrible than ever. So this is a high time to know about the gardening tips for better maintenance of your lawn. Do follow the following gardening tips for better life of your garden: -
 
Gardening tips for pruning
As we discussed in the introduction, pruning plays an important role in the garden maintenance. If you commit any mistake while pruning, don’t lose your heart because it’s like a bad haircut, it is going to grow again.
 
Avoid watering in the evening
During summer, you may experience high humidity, which might result in lot of problems in your garden. To get your plants nice and dry, tuck them in for night. In addition to this watering in the evening may be avoided to prevent damage to the plants.
 
Get rid of Powdery mildew
Powdery mildew is the common fungus mostly affects your ornamental plants. This will create white film on the leaves of the plants in your garden. Even other ornamental plants such as Sand cherry and Dogwoods are also getting affected with this fungus. So efficient gardening tips are necessary to curtail the growth of this fungus. You can easily prevent this by spraying general fungicide in the garden centre.
 
Prevention of Pythium Blight
If you’re in the north, and also having perennial Rye grass, then you ought to be very careful not to leave your grass wet at night. A dreadful fungus called Pythium Blight may take its upper hand, if you leave your lawn wet in the night because this fungus love to grow in high humid condition mostly, in the night.
 
Pythium blight can easily be seen in the early morning. You can easily appreciate the fungus on the top of the lawn as white cotton candy. You can easily notice this fungus mainly along driveways and walks, where the soil is moist. Pythium blight can easily be controlled by watering in the day at the earliest possible time.
 
Fire Blight
Fire Blight, yet another culprit prefers to grow well during summer than any other season. This fungus prefers to attack Pyracantha, cotoneasters, crabapple trees, and Apple trees. The presence of Fire Blight can easily be visualized once the any one of the branches of the plant turns red and dies. This Fire Blight can be prevented little by pruning the affected branch and removing it from the main plant as far as possible.
 
It is also important that the cut branches should be burnt since Fire Blight is contagious and also wash or dip the projected shears by using alcohol in order to prevent the spread of the deadly fungus to other parts of the branch.

Shotgun fungus
A little gem like fungus, which prefers to grow in mulch and tends to swell, has been termed as “Short gun Fungus”. This fungus can fly up to 8 feet in the air and will spatter your house with tiny brown specks and once they stick to your house or windows, they stick like glue. Most of us suspect the spiders and aliens for this tiny brown speck. You can’t prevent this fungus, but can do something by keeping the mulch loose so air can circulate inside to keep this fungus out. Although mulch is great, don’t allow them to get packed, try to remove it at least once in a year and also rake it flat as if it will look like you’ve just mulched.

Roses have gotten a bad wrap over the years for being difficult to grow and maintain.  If you are thinking of rose gardening don’t let this rumor stop you.  While rose gardening can prove to be challenging, once you get the hang of it, it really isn’t that bad.

When you first start rose gardening, you will have to choose what type of rose you wish to plant, and no, I’m not talking about the color.  You will have to choose between bare-root, pre-packaged, and container-grown roses. Bare-root roses are sold in the winter and early spring.  They should be planted as soon as frosts are over and the ground is warm and workable.  Pre-packaged roses are bare-root plants that are sold in a bad or box with something around the roots to retain moisture, such as sawdust.  Container-grown roses are grown, you guessed it, in containers.  They will be either budding or already in bloom when they become available in the early spring.

Planting in rose gardening is not that much different than any other type of plant.  The most important thing, as always, is good, healthy soil and a prime planting area.  It doesn’t matter whether your roses are bare-root or container-grown, the planting methods are the same as any other shrub.  Make sure the spot you choose has good drainage, gets plenty of sunlight, and will not overcrowd your roses.  Before planting, any dead leaves and thin or decayed shoots need to be cut off.  Any damaged or very long roots also need to be trimmed.  Soak bare-root roses in water about 10-12 hours to restore moisture in the roots before planting and water the soil before planting as well.  Make sure the hole you have dug is large enough for the root growth of the rose.  Also it is a good idea to use compost or mulch.  After all, roses like extra nutrients just like any other plant.

Roses need the same things as other plants, they are just a bit needier.  One of the most important things to remember in rose gardening is that roses are heavy feeders and will need several fertilizer applications.  Fertilizing should be started in early spring and discontinued in early fall.  Make sure not to over-fertilize (fertilize should come with instructions) and water after each feeding.  Roses require large amounts of water; a thorough watering twice a week should be enough.

Pruning is an essential part to flower gardening.  It increases blooms and encourages healthy plant growth. Different varieties of roses have different instructions for pruning, so you might want to read up on your rose types and see what is suggested.

The main thing to remember in rose gardening is to water, water, and water some more.  One other thing about rose gardening is the amount of fertilizer and nutrients you will need to use, and the pruning that needs to be done to keep your roses under control and healthy.  Even though rose gardening takes a little more time and roses are more work, they are one of the most unique and beautiful plants, and definitely worth the extra work.

Climbing, or rambling roses are one of the popular types of roses that have many varieties to them and can be grown in many different places. However, like many other plants, they need help to stay healthy and maintained through the different seasons.

Both climbing and rambling roses will produce two different kinds of shoots. One is the main cane, which is the center of the structure. The other is the flowering shoots, which grow out from the canes. Depending on where you have decided to plant the flowers, will determine how much they are able to bloom.

Rambling roses are a little bit different than climbing roses. They will only bloom once in the spring, and stay with several different blooms for four to six weeks. They will also usually grow to be very tall and have flexible canes that can usually be moved towards your proper placing. Climbing roses will have blooms that occur during several different times throughout the year. The canes are often heavier and have to be tied in order to stay in place. They will usually grow to be about ten to twelve feet in height, which is lower than rambling roses.

To begin growing either rambling or climbing roses, it is best to dig a hole that is two feet deep. This should then be fertilized with manure at the bottom of the hole. Once you have the rose planted, you can then fill the hole with mulch, peat moss or half potting soil mix, in order to ensure that it will hold more water and have more nutrients available for its growth. You should then try to fertilize these plants twice a year, making sure that it is not around the time that there is a new frost.

Once your rambling or climbing roses start growing, it is best to make sure that you help them find the way that you want them to go. With rambling roses, this is simply going and moving the canes in the direction that is best for them to grow. With climbing roses, you will need to tie them to the area in which they are growing by. With both of these types of roses, doing this will help them to move where it will look the best. It is always easier to tie the roses by having a support in place before you plant them. When they begin growing, it will be easier to tie them and train them to move in the direction that you want them to.

Another thing that should be done with climbing and rambling roses is regular pruning. For the first two or three years, the only thing that should be maintained is taking out dead wood and broken branches. This will prevent disease and allow the roses more room to breathe and receive sunlight. After these two or three years, the best thing to do is to take out dead, damaged, and overcrowded canes that are at the base. After you take these out, they can be replaced with new canes to help ensure better growth. Another pruning technique to use at this time is to take the side shoots and prune two to three buds above the canes. This should be done during the winter season.

Another thing to consider when you have climbing roses is what you can do to help them to prepare for winter. Because they have height with their blooms, leaves and stems, these need to be protected from strong winds that may dry them out. You can wrap the canes of the climbing roses into bundles, using straw or insulation to hold them together and keep them warm. You can also decide to remove the canes of the climbing roses from their home and lay them on the ground. You can then tie them together and make sure that they stay securely in their place on the ground for the winter. It is best to pour a layer of mulch over the roses to protect them.

Rambling and climbing roses can add to your garden with their blooms, height, and by the structure that you can give them. By training them to structure in certain ways, as well as maintaining them through winter and by pruning the roses, rambling and climbing roses can be successful in your garden.