Composting your grass clippings is not a difficult process, though it may require a bit more work than you might think and these clippings can sometimes cause problems in your compost pile if not properly composted. Taking a few simple precautions will prevent your grass from turning into a smelly and slimy problem.

Grasscycling is the easiest way to deal with your grass clippings. With grasscycling, you just live the grass clippings on the lawn. If you lave grass clippings where they fall naturally from the mower, they will act like any other natural fertilizer. This will save you money on fertilizer and time on bagging or moving grass cuttings. Any grass mower can become a grasscycler – all you need to do is remove the grass catcher from your lawn mower. You will need to make sure you are mowing when the grass is dry to prevent the old clippings from clogging up your lawn mower and keep the blade of your mower sharp. Let the grass clipping lie like this is the simplest way to deal with them, though it may not be practical if you have young children or pets.

If the idea of grasscycling does not appeal to you, then here is the proper way to compost your grass clippings.

Your freshly trimmed grass has more moisture and a much higher nitrogen level than most other garden materials. Freshly mowed grass can often clump together and this is a problem because there is no room for oxygen to get in. If you compost your grass clippings like this, you may find that you have a serious odor problem to deal with. If you follow the following process, you should be able to reap the benefits of adding fresh grass clippings to your compost and also avoid any sort of odor problem. Grass can also develop a white mold if there is no air getting in.

To start with, you want to add high carbon materials (also referred to as browns) to your compost pile. These types of materials include wood chips, leaves and broken up sticks. Adding browns to your compost will prevent the grass clippings from clumping up the compost and will help oxygen circulate. You want to alternate your layers – a layer of grass clippings and then one of browns.

You can also get the oxygen in your compost pile circulate by aerating it. Aerating or oxygenating your compost pile involves the turning of the material. If you are going to be adding grass clippings to your pile then you need to make sure that you are aerating your compost pile on a regular basis. If your pile is mainly made up of grass clippings then there is nothing for the gas has nothing to ignite and the pile turns into a disgusting slimy mess.

If you are going to be continually composting your grass clippings then you are going to have more grass clippings than other materials in your compost pile. What is the solution? The solution is obviously multiple compost piles. You’ll go through a process all summer where you are rotating between the piles and then consolidating piles as they become more manageable.

If you do not want to have two or three compost piles on the go, you can also try baking your grass clippings in the sun for a day before adding them to your compost pile. You can spread them on your driveway or any other flat surface for at least a day to prevent the clippings from souring up your compost pile.

If you have recently applied pesticides or herbicides to your lawn, then you do not want to add those grass clippings to your compost pile until the rain has washed them clean. You really need to be careful about adding clippings to your pile that have come in contact with chemicals like these.

Another tip that you might find useful is to add lime to your compost pile (or grass heap if it’s mainly made up of grass). This will kick start the decomposing process and prevent mold from forming and your pile from developing a nasty odor.

Follow these simple guidelines and you should have no problem turning your old grass clippings into compost that will benefit your whole garden.

Garden advice is not that hard to come by.  In fact, you can get gardening advice from another gardener, in a gardening catalogue, gardening books, gardening magazines, and even on the Internet.  Although you will have variations with every plant, there is some gardening advice that is universal and that goes for any plant.

For example, the gardening advice given for planting is pretty much uniform.  You must place plants where they will have room to grow so they don’t overcrowd each other.  Good air flow is a plus, and plants must be in a position where they will receive adequate amounts of sunlight.  Advice will always tell you to add some type of nutrients to the soil to lead to better plant growth, such as mulch or compost.

Gardening advice on watering plants is a little more varied, because every type of plant needs different amounts of water.  For example, you wouldn’t want to water a cactus near as much as you water a tomato plant.  How much you water will obviously also depend on where you live, the climate, and how much rain your area receives.

Gardening advice from nearly every source will tell you that your plants not only need fertilize when you first plant them, they will also needed to be fertilized throughout their growing season.  What type of fertilize used will depend on the soil content and pH balance, but fertilize will definitely be needed on most all plants.  Compost can be used instead and it is easy to find advice on how to make a compost pile as well as when fertilize and compost needs to be used.

Gardening advice on weeds, insects, disease, and how to get rid of them is probably the most sought after advice in all of gardening.  These pests invade all gardens and if you don’t get rid of them, they will take over and ruin your garden.  There are many different chemicals and pesticides that can be used, and gardening advice will usually clue gardeners in on which chemicals are better, which are harmful, and which ones are easier to administer.

Gardening is not an easy task, you have to fight against many outside forces, such as weather, insects, disease, and weeds.  Even the most seasoned of gardeners will seek out gardening advice once in a while.  Who wouldn’t when there are so many forces that could take a garden out?  There is a lot of general gardening advice on the market that goes for any plant, but if you look a little harder you will find specific advice for that one plant that is the only one giving you trouble.  Gardening advice is relatively easy to find, and while you may come across the occasional bad apple, most of it is relatively sound and will help with any gardening question.

You’ve probably heard the phrase: every rose has its thorn.  Too many, thorns symbolize the danger that lurks behind the beauty of the roses, and all sorts of myths try to explain the presence of these dangerous little daggers on rose stems.  Greek myth suggests that Cupid shot arrows into the roses accidentally after being stung by a bee and it was the sting from his arrow that caused the thorns to take root.

Don’t despair if these little daggers are a thorn in your side.  With a little care and some patience, you can remove those pesky thorns for a nice smooth stem on your rose.

Thorns do actually help the plant drink water, so it is important that you remove them properly and do not inflict excessive damage on the stem.  You need to take your time and practice a proper dethorning technique – otherwise you and the rose will be injured in the process.

Carelessly removing thorns will damage your roses in the long run.  They will not last as long as they should and any peeled or torn skin will hinder the amount of water that makes its way up to the petals.  Proper dethorning takes practice and patience.

You can remove thorns right on the plant, or you can wait until the stem is cut and do it then.  It is best to try and remove thorns on the cane when it is quite young and before the rose blooms if you know that the stem will be cut at some point in the future for display or for the creation of a bouquet.  You can remove thorns by applying slight pressure to the sides to simply push them off the stem.  You can use this same procedure with cut stems.

Removing thorns by hand is a tedious task, and with some roses, the thorns grow so close together that it is almost impossible to push one off without stabbing yourself on another one.  That’s where a dethorning tool can come in handy.

You can purchase a specialty product like a thorn stripper.  This type of tool strips the stem of leaves and thorns. You can also fashion your own with some metal strapping from your local hardware store.  If you do make your own, be sure to file the edges that touch the flower so the stem is not torn excessively in the dethorning process.

To use a dethroning tool, you simply hold it just below the flower and close the jaws together around the stem. Be sure that you don’t use too much pressure when closing the jaws of the stripper because you could damage or even severe the stem.  Lightly drag the dethorner down the stem.  The thorns should pop right off.  It may take a bit of practice to get the hand of a thorn stripper, but after a few tries you should have a good idea of how much pressure is needed to remove the thorns.

You can also remove thorns with a knife.  All you need to do is scrape the stem of the rose with a sharp floral or small pairing knife.  If you are removing thorns from the cut stem, then you might consider only removing the thorns and leaves that lie below the water level.

You want to think carefully about whether or not you need to remove all the thorns from your roses.  It is important to remove rose thorns when the flowers will be in a hand held bouquet or worn on the lapel.  When placing cut stems in a vase for display, you should remove the thorns that will be below the surface of the water, but you don’t need to take off those that will be above water level.  Removing thorns can shorten the life of your roses so be sure that you aren’t over dethorning your blooms.

An important time to do some dethorning, though, is when you are preparing plant litter for your compost pile.  After pruning off any dead or decaying canes from your rose bush, you should consider removing the thorns before tossing the old stems into your compost pile.  Removing the thorns will make it safer for you to work and exposing the stem in this way will also help sped up the decomposition process.

One of the most basic and possibly mundane actions you have to perform on your lawn is to mow it. Every Saturday or Sunday you fire up the lawn mower, push it out into the yard, and begin the routine: push down, back, down, empty the bag, and repeat. Do you have to empty the bag, though? Do you have to bag the clippings at all? The topic is one that is debated on cul-de-sacs across America. The truth is that there is a time to bag your clippings and a time not to bag them. You can avoid a lot of the time consuming work of bagging and emptying by educating yourself on the scientific reasoning behind mulching, while still keeping in mind that there are good times to bag your clippings.

You are already thinking that mulching or leaving clippings is bad for your lawn because it contributes to thatch. That is actually not true. Thatch, for the most part, is made up of dead or dying roots, leaves, and other slow-decomposing organic matter, but not grass. Your lawn clippings actually decompose at a fairly rapid rate, and will actually make your lawn more durable.

Clippings contain many of the same nutrients contained in the fertilizers you buy at the local gardening center. For every bag of clippings you haul away from your yard, you are taking with it a quarter pound of organic nitrogen. Now, how much do you pay for organic nitrogen for your lawn? By simply mulching your clippings back into the lawn, you can save significantly on your fertilization costs. Imagine the money you would save if you just fertilized one less time per year.

Leaving your lawn clippings in the grass will also help to create a cushion under your lawn surface that is healthier than the thatch, but is enough to help maintain the lawns durability. The clippings will also help to keep your soil temperatures down and moisture in the soil where your grass can actually make use of it.

There are a lot of benefits to leaving your clippings in your lawn, or mulching them down, but there are actually reasons to bag your clippings from time to time as well. The most notable time is if you let the lawn get away from you. Maybe you had to go out of town and let it go a week longer than you should have, got busy and didn’t get to it, or just were feeling lazy one week. No matter what the reason may be, if you are cutting more than an inch off of your lawn, you are creating fairly large clippings. Large clippings of an inch or more may have trouble getting between the blades in your lawn and down to the soil where they can do any good. In that case, bag the clippings. You can still use them in a compost pile or for fertilizing other plants on your property, though. Just keep in mind that if your lawn has been recently treated with chemicals, that you should wait through two cuttings before using the clippings on any other plants.

The other reason to bag your clippings would be if you happen to have dandelions in your yard and they have gone to seed. In a perfect world, you would never have dandelions growing in your yard, but the truth is that not everyone has the time or desire to do what is necessary to keep them out completely. If you were to leave them in after going to seed and mowing them, you will, however, end up with many more dandelions than you had in the first place.

Traditionally, lawn clippings have been bagged and set out with the trash collection each week. However, the trend is certainly moving away from the bagging of lawn clippings. By leaving the clippings in the lawn, scientists have found that the clippings can reduce water evaporation, reduce lawn weary by adding a cushion, and create healthier grass by giving nutrients and maintaining cooler temperatures in the soil through hot summer days. By leaving your clippings in, except for in certain circumstances, you will be able to create a more self-maintaining lawn and save yourself money at the same time.

The thing to remember while gardening is to start small.  A small plant bed, about 25 or 30 feet square is perfect, is just enough room for about 30 plants.  This will give you a chance to try out your green thumb and if you find that you enjoy your garden you can always expand and increase your plantings.

The next thing you will want to do is choose a site. Gardening must be done in an area that gets at least six hours of sunlight.  Try and stay away from large trees that will take your plants water and nutrients, and at least three feet from any fences or buildings.  In hot climates it is a good idea to choose a place that will have shade from a part of the intense afternoon sun.  It is possible to have a healthy garden with even ten to twelve hours of sunlight, but the type of plants must be adaptable.  While soil can always be improved, a site with good soil is a plus.  Avoid areas that have rocky soil, steep slopes, or areas where water stands.

Now comes the fun part: start digging.  Gardening is not a clean hobby; you’re going to have to get some dirt under your nails.  First remove the rocks, debris, and any grass and weeds then dig the spot up about one foot deep.  Level up the dirt and add compost or minerals if the needed.  If your soil is too acidic, add lime; if it is too sandy, add peat moss.  Plants will thrive in neutral to acidic soil with a little added fertilizer.

If you buy seeds then plant them according to the directions.  If picking plants, choose ones with green, healthy looking leaves and stems and healthy roots.  Put the smaller plants towards the front of the bed and larger ones in the back.  The key to a successful beginning in gardening is planting at the right time.  Make sure and wait until the frosts are over before planting.  If you are planting seeds the package will usually tell you exactly when you can plant them to achieve maximum growth.

Once you have started and gotten into gardening, making sure your plants receive enough water is essential to their growth.  Hand watering works well if you only have a few plants.  Other options include sprinklers or sprinkler hoses.  Watering is more effective during the cooler parts of the day.  The type of plant will depend on how much water is needed, but most require about an inch per week.  During the hottest periods plants will be need watering about three times per week.

One of the most helpful things to add to a garden is mulch or compost.  Just a few inches of organic mulch will improve fertility and help the soil hold moisture.  Wood chips, grass clippings, leaves, manure, and pine needles are all things that can be used as mulch.