Flower gardening is becoming more and more popular every day.  Flowers can brighten everyone’s day, they smell nice, and are a great hobby.  Flower gardening is simple, inexpensive, and loads of fun.  Flower gardening can be done for yard decoration, simply as a hobby, or even professionally.
There are some decisions that have to be made before even flower gardening can be started.  You must decide if you want annuals that live for one season and must be replanted every year, or perennials that survive the winter and return again in the summer.  When buying and planting, pay attention to what kind of flowers thrive in your climate as well ass the sun requirements.
When flower gardening, you must decide what type of look you want before planting.  For instance, mixing different heights, colors, and varieties of flowers together in a “wild-plant style” will give your garden a meadow look and can be very charming.  If short flowers are planted in the front of your garden and work up to the tallest flowers in the back you will have a “stepping stone style”.
You can order seeds for flower gardening from catalogues or buy them from a nursery.  Most people will go to the nursery and buy actual flowers and then transplant them.  After you have prepared your garden area and bought flowers, it is a good idea to lay the flowers out in the bed to make sure you like the arrangement and that they will be spaced properly.
One of the easiest processes in flower gardening is the planting/ if you have seeds just sprinkle them around in the flower bed.  For planting transplants dig a hole just bigger than the flower, pull the container off, and set the flower in the hole right side up.  Cover it with the loose soil and press down firmly, then water.

Maintaining a flower garden is even easier than planting one.  Although they might make it on their own, a bag of fertilizer applied in the early spring is a good idea.  Pinch back any blooms after they start to fade and keep them good and watered.  To save yourself work during the next season of flower gardening, rid your garden of all debris and spread out organic nutrients like peat moss or compost.  Don’t forget to turn over the soil to properly mix in the fertilizer and rake smooth when finished.  If you have perennials planted be careful not to disturb their roots in this process.

Flower gardening is as easy as 1, 2, and 3: simply decide what to plant; plant it, and water, water, water!  Flower gardening is undoubtedly gaining in popularity and gives anyone excellent reason to spend some outdoors and test out their green thumb.

Bulbs are among the most interesting, most beautiful and easiest to grow of all flower varieties.  Tulip bulbs were once so prized in Holland that it led to one of the best known financial bubbles in history, and even today, tulips are a leading export from that part of the world.

Even though bulbs are not quite so highly prized today as they were in 17th century Holland, they are still loved for their scents, their colors and their shapes, and gardeners love the fact that most bulbs are hardy and easy to grow.

Many of the most popular varieties of flowers are actually grown from bulbs, including tulips, crocuses, daffodils, irises, lilies, daylilies, dahlias and snowdrops.

One thing all bulb based plants have in common is that they grow from structures located under the ground.  These underground structures provide the nutrients and energy the plants need to grow.

Even though bulb based plants are collectively known as “bulbs’, there are actually five distinct types of bulb plants – the true bulb, the corm, the tuber, the rhizome and the tuberous root.  This article will provide examples of each type.

The True Bulb
The true bulb is in reality an underground stem base containing an embryonic plant.  The embryonic plant contained within the steam base already contains the leaves, stems and flower buds, all ready to burst forth once optimal growing conditions are provided.  This setup allows the plant to lie dormant during adverse conditions, and thus to survive droughts and other environmental challenges.
The embryonic plant contained within the stem base is surrounded by scales (modified leaves that overlap in a manner reminiscent of reptile or fish scales).  At the bottom of the bulb is a basal plate; this basal plate holds the scales together and produces the roots of the plant. 
Examples of true bulbs are such popular flower varieties as daffodils, tulips and lilies.  True bulb varieties of plants are susceptible to dryness and must be handled carefully.  When properly cared for, however, individual bulbs can live for many years without being planted.
The Corm
A corm, like a true bulb, also contains a stem base, but the tissue of the base is solid, and it lacks the scales seen in true bulbs.  The roots grow from a basal plate which is located at the bottom of the corm, and the growth point is located at the top of the corm. 

Popular types of corms include gladiolas and crocus.  Each corm lasts for a single season, and as the corm shrinks away after blooming, a new corm forms on top of it.  In addition, small increases, called cormels, are produced around the base of the corm’s basal plate.

The Tuber
Like corm and true bulbs, a tuber is actually an underground stem base.  Unlike corms and a true bulbs, however, the tuber does not contain a basal plate.   Instead, the roots of the tuber grow from both the base and from the sides.  A tuber will have multiple growth points spread out over its top surface.

The Rhizome
The rhizome is actually a thickened stem that grows either partly or completely underneath the ground.  The largest growth point on a rhizome is located at one end, and additional growth points are located along the sides.  The most well known rhizome is the bearded iris.

Tuberous Roots
Unlike other types of bulbs, which are actually specially adapted stems, the tuberous root is not a true root.  Instead, fibrous roots designed to absorb nutrients and water grow from the sides and the tip of the tuberous root.  Most tuberous roots grow in a cluster, and swollen tuberous parts radiate out from a centralized point.  The growth points of a tuberous root are found on the bases of the old stems and not on the roots themselves.  Dahlias and daylilies are the best known examples of tuberous roots.

Everyone who gardens will sooner or later have to deal with common diseases of plants and flowers.  While some gardeners are luckier than others in this regard, everyone, from the smallest casual gardener to the largest commercial growing operation, has had to grapple with this serious issue.

Both flowering and non-flowering plants are prone to a number of pathogens, including bacteria, fungi and viruses.   Fungi are able to survive in the soil, independent of the plants, while both bacteria and viruses require a plant host for their survival.

Fungi
Fungi are among the most primitive of all organisms, and they are able to reproduce through the use of spores.  These spores can be extremely difficult to kill, and the spores are designed to spread rapidly. Fungi produce spores in large numbers, and some of the spores are able to enter plants through their roots, while other spores attach themselves to the leaves of the plant.  A single infected plant can release up to 100 million spores, so it is important to completely eradicate any fungal infection.

Bacteria
Unlike fungi, which can lie dormant for years or even decades in the soil, bacteria need both warmth and water to multiply and grow.  Therefore, the majority of bacterial diseases are more of a problem in climates that are both warm and wet.  Bacterial infections are easily spread through rain, splashing water, and even unknowingly by gardeners as they move between their plants.  Most bacteria enter plants through a natural opening like a flower, or through a wound or cut in a stem or leaf.

Viruses
Viruses are even smaller life forms than bacteria, and they are able to reproduce only from within the cells of the plant or animal they infect.  Certain viruses can be transmitted from plant to plant by insects such as aphids, thrips and leafhoppers, while still others can be carried by infected seeds or pollen spores.  Like bacteria, viruses often enter plants through cuts or wounds in the stems, leaves or other parts of the plant.

As with all other disease treatment, the first step to effectively treating a viral, bacterial or fungal infection in the garden is to diagnose it properly.  Every gardener should keep a book or guide on hand which shows the effects of common plant diseases.  This guide will prove invaluable when trying to figure out what is bothering your plants.  If you are still stumped for a diagnosis, be sure to seek the assistance of the staff at your local garden center, or the help of a more experienced gardener.

When treating bacterial, fungal and viral infections, the best approach is to try the most natural, least invasive methods first, and to move on only if those natural cures do not produce results.  It is always a good idea to keep the use of harsh chemical pesticides and fungicides to a minimum, both for the health of your garden and the health of the wider environment.

Just about every flower gardener will work with bulb plants at one time or another.  Bulbs are loved by gardeners for the ease with which they grow, their hardiness and the fact that they can bloom again and again for many consecutive seasons without the need to replant.  With all these advantages, it is no wonder that bulb plants are so popular among both new and experienced gardeners.
 
Choosing the right bulbs, however, is one thing that many beginning gardeners have trouble with.  After you develop and eye and feel for finding the best bulbs, however, you will be able to spot them from across the garden center.

When choosing bulbs for your garden, it is important to choose the firmest and largest bulbs.  The size of the bulb is important, since large bulbs are more likely to provide many blooms.  The firmness of the bulb is a good indication of its health, and bulbs that are soft or mushy are unlikely to bloom.  Bulbs are particularly susceptible to water damage.  It is important to choose a bulb that is not to soft, but it is also important to look for cracks or scars.  Bulbs with cracks or scars may have become too dry to bloom.  Likewise, any bulbs that have begun to spout roots should be avoided, as they are unlikely to bloom properly once planted.

How bulbs are planted in the garden is important as well.  Most bulbs are best planted in the fall, most commonly in early to mid October.  The goal is to get the bulbs into the ground six weeks before the ground begins to freeze, so obviously the best time to plant will vary from location to location. 

Bulbs should be planted in a well prepared soil, and the depth they should be planted will be determined by the type of bulb.  For example, crocus bulbs are generally planted four inches deep, daffodil and hyacinth bulbs six inches deep and tulip bulbs at a depth of eight inches.

A simple gardening tool called a bulb planter is great for achieving a more uniform look to the blooming garden.  Bulb planters can be used to easily prepare perfect looking rows of flowers.  Those gardneres who prefer a more wild and freewheeling look, on the other hand, often dig a single hole and plant several bulbs in it.  This approach can lead to spectacular, if somewhat unpredictable, patterns once the bulbs begin to bloom.

It is important to use a small amount of fertilizer at the bottom of each hole you dig when planting bulbs.  The fertilizer should then be topped with a thin layer of soil, and the bulb carefully placed on top of the soil.  It is important not to place the bulb directly on top of the fertilizer, as doing so could damage the bulb.  Bulbs are always planted with the pointed end stick up and the flat, rooted side lying on top of the layer of soil.  After the bulbs are in place, the rest of the hole should be filled with soil and the garden should be given a thorough watering.

Even though bulbs are among the hardiest of garden plants, there are a few important things to remember.  One important technique to become familiar with is deadheading.  The term deadheading should already be familiar to those gardeners who work with perennials.  Deadheading is simply removing spent blooms in order to encourage more blossoms to develop.  This process is important with bulb plants as well.  When working with bulbs, however, it is important not to remove the leaves from the plants until the leaves have begun turning brown.

Taking care of the bulbs over the winter is important as well.  In warmer climates, many bulbs can remain in the ground over winter.  It is important, however, to remove tender bulbs such as dahlias, even in warmer climates.  These bulbs should be stored over the winter in a cool, dry location.

Bulbs are wonderful plants for any gardener, from the newest to the most experienced.  Their combination of hardiness, color and beauty make them hard to beat for any flower enthusiast.

There is nothing more refreshing than a bouquet full of lively, sweet smelling roses. Very few other plants can be displayed as beautifully as roses can. The powerful aromas and buds blossoming further into existence can brighten up the gloomiest of days. Enjoy a vase of red roses in the middle of the dinner table or an arrangement of yellow roses perched on your bureau. Fresh cut roses will fill your living spaces with positive, natural energy.

Of course, that sad day when you have to throw the cut roses away will eventually come. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if that serenity could be maintained forever? Well, you may not be able to keep your roses alive forever but you can do the next best thing. Keep your roses fresh for the longest time possible by cutting them properly.

You don’t have to be a major Rosarian or a head gardener to cut roses. But it help if you know that there is a procedure to cutting roses that will yield better results than just snipping them and throwing them in a vase. By following a few easy steps you can keep your fresh cut roses alive and beautiful for longer.

First, before you head out into the garden, find a bucket and put an ample amount of hot water in it. Also take a holding container with hot water with you. Put the roses in the bucket and cut off about half an inch at an angle below the water line. Leave the roses in the water for ten seconds. Then move them to the holding container and leave them there until the water cools to room temperature.

Flowers with longer stems should be chosen so you can trim them again to fill out an arrangement. Use clean shears that are very sharp for precise cuts. And always cut above the bud to insure that future growth is not stunted. You want to be able to cut more roses in the future.

The best time to cut roses is when temperatures are cooler. So you need to either get up with the roosters, or wait until after late in the afternoon. This is when the bloom and upper cane of the rose will have the most plant sugar in it. The worst time to cut roses is midday or whenever temperatures are hot. Carefully search for the roses that are on the verge of their optimum stage of development. Pick buds that are opening but are not completely in bloom.

Don’t be overzealous and cut off too many leaves at once. You want a full arrangement, but you don’t want to harm your roses. If you don’t leave at least three leaves on a rose stem you will starve the plant.

Discard any leaves that will end up sitting below the water line in the vase. Your roses will need more than water to survive once cut. Your roses will need a little extra help to maintain their stellar good looks. Be sure to add a floral preservative. Or if you don’t have any immediately handy, mix a bit of lemon juice and sugar together and drip it into the vase.

Roses need a tidy bowl to live in. Refresh the water every time it begins to get dirty. Also, allow your roses to get acclimated to their new environment before they wilt. Store the cut roses in a shady low temperature area before you show them off and whenever you leave the house.

If your roses start to wilt don’t panic. Try cutting the ends of the stems again and place them in clement water for an hour or so. This should help water travel better through the stems and put off wilting for a while. One more tip for rose life span extension is to store the roses in the refrigerator over night. This will preserve your roses for an optimum amount of time.

Roses are very favorable flowers to cut. These simple, easy steps will make a difference in their life span once cut. If you furnish them with a favorable environment they will last much longer than most flowers after being cut.